Cooking With a Right Jolly Old Elf: Santa's Recipes from the North Pole

Santa's North Pole Cookbook: Classic Christmas Recipes from Saint Nicholas Himself by Jeff Guinn

Hardcover, 272 pages

Publisher: Tarcher

Price: $19.95

Published: 2007

This book review was originally published in MotherTown in December 2007.

Santa’s North Pole Cookbook: Classic Christmas Recipes from Saint Nicholas Himself is Jeff Guinn’s newest addition to The Christmas Chronicles, his as-told-to-by-Santa-Claus series of holiday books, which includes The Autobiography of Santa Claus (1994); How Mrs. Claus Saved Christmas (2005); and The Great Santa Search (2006).

In Santa’s North Pole Cookbook, Santa handpicks more than 60 holiday recipes from 32 countries that he’s visited during his extensive Christmastime gift-giving travels. Santa also introduces us to Lars, the official North Pole chef who lives with and cooks for Santa; Layla, better known as Mrs. Claus; Santa’s helpers; and Santa’s friends —namely Attila the Hun, Leonardo da Vinci, and Theodore Roosevelt. (Pick up the charming The Autobiography of Santa Claus and learn how Santa befriends these — and other — legends of history and meets and marries Layla.) Lars offers tips on the preparation of Santa’s festive breakfast, side-dish, main-course, dessert, and drink recipes and adds some of his own dishes that he’s perfected while at the North Pole.

“With this cookbook,” Santa says, “I’m so pleased to welcome you into our well-fed company . . . . Every recipe will add tasty enhancement to your seasonal revelry. You’ll find some . . . gloriously simple, perfect for children who want to help prepare holiday snacks. A few will require considerable preparation, but they will reward you for your effort. I promise that all are delectable, whether they are consumed as part of a family meal or potluck dishes at a jolly Christmas party . . . . Essentially, I’m inviting you and your loved ones to pull your chairs right up to Santa’s own dining room table.”

On December 6, “Nicholas Day,” Santa begins his gift-giving in Hungary and certain parts of South Africa. Hungarian children refer to Santa as Mikulás Bácsi, or Uncle Nicholas, and leave their shoes out overnight to be filled with candy. And some South African children expect Santa’s presents on Nicholas Day, too.

On Christmas Eve in Hungary, children await Jésuka, or Baby Jesus, who brings them their gifts. A Christmas morning breakfast of palacsinta (pancakes) made with baker’s cheese is prepared, and later in the day only holiday beigli (poppy seed or walnut pastries) will do for dessert. In the regions of South Africa where Christmas is celebrated on December 25, Santa is called Goosaleh and families leave Christmas karringmelkbeskuit (buttermilk biscotti) for Santa to enjoy after he’s filled their stockings. Because it is summer in South Africa, holiday specialties are on the lighter side. But, Santa says, that doesn’t mean they’re any less delicious. As proof, Santa offers baked mealies (corn kernels) and tomatoes, a dish that complements pork or beef and can be an appetizing main course for vegetarians.

In Ethiopia, Russia, and Egypt holiday observances occur on January 7. Ethiopia is one of the oldest Christian nations (dating back to 330 A.D.) and is where some of the “most venerable” Christmas, or Ganna, as it is called, traditions can be found. Ethiopians fast for 40 days before Ganna. When Ganna arrives, Santa states, “everyone is ready to feast!” A zesty chicken stew called Doro Wat, made with a spicy butter named niter kebbeh (recipe included) and hard-boiled eggs, is “as traditional a holiday main course in Ethiopia as roast turkey is in America.” (Regarding turkey: Lars includes his Christmas Rosemary Turkey recipe, which may “shock turkey traditionalists” with its use of garlic. “All I can say is, try it! You and your Christmas dinner guests will be delightfully surprised,” Lars assures.)

Russians anticipate the holiday visit of Ded Moroz, or Grandfather Frost, and kissel, an easily prepared traditional cranberry dish that goes well with goose or turkey, is served. In Egypt, kakh, sweet cookies filled with walnuts, honey or date spread, are customary holiday desserts.

On January 6 when Epiphany — the day that honors the legend of the Three Kings who brought gifts to Baby Jesus — is celebrated in Peru, families prepare Rosca de Reyes (Kings’ Ring). It’s a rolled, sweet bread made with mixed fruit, almonds, cinnamon, and sugar that’s “just right for having on hand as a Christmas-themed treat for guests,” Lars says.

In Sweden, a holiday gnome named Jultomten delivers gifts to the children, and Christmas morning is just the start of holiday celebration. More than 1,000 years ago, King Canute decreed that Christmas feasting should last one month, so Swedish holidays end on January 13. Serving Julbord, a variety of simple-to-prepare appetizers, is a long-established custom.

Christmas traditions are strong in Cuba despite the government’s imposed strictures. Lechón Asada (pork roast) prepared with a mojo marinade of garlic, cumin, white vinegar, and red cooking wine and accompanied by Moros y Cristanos (black beans and rice), the recipe for which dates back to the 1500s, are a favored holiday meal.

“When you prepare and serve this dish,” Lars imparts, “you’re creating a holiday link that goes back at least five centuries.” (This reviewer, in the company of friends, tested this Cuban offering. “Fantástico" was uttered frequently from those seated at the dinner table.)

The diversity of these international cuisines continues with Trinidad and Tobago’s Black Christmas Fruitcake, which tastes all-the-better when you soak your fruit mixture in brandy and rum for at least a month; Australia’s Flaming Ginger Prawns appetizer; Korea’s Bulgogi (Fire Meat), a barbecue beef dish that pleases the taste buds of “Santa Grandfather”; Jamaica’s Coat of Arms (spicy peas), made with coconut milk and hot red pepper sauce; Finland’s Julglögg (Christmas mulled wine), a drink with a “considerable wallop”; Ivory Coast’s Yuletide Aloco (plantain chips); Ghana’s Christmas Fufu (mashed yams), which completes any poultry dish; the Philippines’ “exquisitely delicious” Lumpia (spring rolls); and Spain’s Hot Chocolate.

There are plenty of recipes in “Santa’s Cookbook” for those who prefer time-honored holiday fare. From Lars’s North Pole kitchen come Fluffy Scrambled Eggs with Rosemary; Traditional Cranberry Ambrosia; and Fruitcake Cookies, which “prove that fruitcake can be enjoyed as a delectable snack that won’t . . . ruin digestion.” And recipes from the U.S.A. include Ben Franklin’s Festive Blueberry Muffins; Theodore Roosevelt’s Pan-Fried Christmas Potatoes; and White House Christmas “Moose.”

Santa is a master gourmand, and this collection of recipes reflects a definite love of food. “At the North Pole,” he says, “we certainly find that gastronomic globetrotting ensures the very merriest of Christmas seasons!”